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Located on a working farm that was once part of a sprawling Rockefeller estate, the restaurant is a beacon of the sustainable food movement. But then, they say, they came to realize that the story told by the restaurant — that a fine dining establishment can create a blueprint for transforming the food system — is essentially a fantasy.
Most of SPFT’s members are like Somrudee and her parents, Chai and Usa Suwannaphat, who followed her in 2011 — ordinary people who never owned much of anything, drawn by the promise of a plot of earth where they could grow enough food for themselves and their children. Now, there is always enough food…nobody has to worry about starving here.”
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